Questions people ask before scheduling plumbing work

Use this rule: repair is when an existing fixture/line isn’t performing correctly (leak, clog, low pressure, running toilet). Installation is when you’re adding or replacing a fixture/appliance (faucet, disposal, toilet) and need compatibility checks, correct connections, and post-install verification.

If you’re unsure, the fastest path is to compare symptoms and tasks against our service matrix. It’s designed to clarify what’s included, what needs approval, and what’s outside scope.

Start with containment and safety. Put a bucket down, protect cabinets/floors, and locate the nearest shutoff (fixture shutoff valves under a sink or behind a toilet, or the home’s main shutoff). If water is spreading quickly, shut off the main and call.

• Active spray / flooding: shut off water immediately and call a professional.
• Slow drip at a supply line: you can often reduce flow at the stop valve; do not overtighten.
• Leak near electrical outlets: avoid the area and consider turning off power to that circuit.

Photos help: capture the leak source, the surrounding connections, and any corrosion. This makes it easier to map the visit scope using the pricing matrix.

Safe first steps depend on the fixture, but generally:

• Remove visible debris (hair trap, pop-up stopper). Clean and re-test.
• Use hot water and a small amount of dish soap for greasy kitchen lines (avoid boiling water in older PVC systems if you’re unsure).
• Use a plunger correctly: seal the overflow (sink/tub) and maintain water level for suction.

Avoid mixing chemical drain cleaners—besides safety concerns, chemicals can complicate professional clearing and may damage some materials. If multiple fixtures are slow, or you hear gurgling, it may indicate a venting or main-line issue—time to call.

Intermittent running usually points to water escaping from the tank into the bowl (often the flapper/flush seal) or a fill valve that doesn’t close consistently. The quick check: add a few drops of food coloring to the tank—if color appears in the bowl without flushing, the seal is leaking.

Many running-toilet issues are straightforward repairs, but if the shutoff valve is seized, fittings are corroded, or the toilet is rocking (wax seal risk), it’s best handled professionally to prevent hidden floor damage.

First, compare multiple fixtures. If only one faucet is affected, the aerator (screen) may be clogged—remove and rinse it. If both hot and cold are low at one fixture, it’s likely localized. If the whole home is low, check:

• Main shutoff and meter valve position (partially closed valves can restrict flow)
• Pressure regulator behavior (if present)
• Recent municipal work or neighborhood-wide changes

If pressure fluctuates or drops suddenly with no obvious valve change, call a professional—hidden leaks and failing regulators can escalate.

Often yes, as long as the product is compatible with your plumbing setup and local code expectations. The biggest risks with customer-supplied parts are: incorrect sizing, missing adapters, mismatched shutoff connections, or incomplete kits.

To avoid a second trip, send the brand/model number (or a photo of the box label) and a photo of the existing connections. Our service matrix explains what’s included in installation and what may require a change order (for example, replacing a shutoff valve or addressing unexpected corrosion).

After installation, it’s normal to see brief air in the lines (spitting) and minor water discoloration if the water was shut off and turned back on. It should clear quickly. What is not normal:

• Persistent dampness at connections or cabinet bottoms
• New gurgling or slow drainage after a disposal install (may indicate a partial blockage or venting issue)
• A toilet that rocks or a base that stays wet (wax seal risk)

If anything looks questionable, stop using the fixture and contact us. Small leaks can cause outsized damage if left overnight.

Yes—our preventive home plumbing check is a practical inspection meant to reduce surprises, not a sales pitch. Typical checklist items include visible supply connections, shutoff valve identification, under-sink moisture checks, toilet base/valve inspection, water heater visible conditions (as accessible), and notes on early warning signs.

The matrix at /pricing/#matrix outlines the boundaries clearly (for example, what counts as visual inspection vs. invasive testing, and what requires a separate repair scope).

A little context saves time and helps you get a more accurate expectation of scope:

• Location: which fixture(s), which floor, and whether it affects multiple fixtures
• Timing: constant vs. intermittent, started after any recent changes (install, remodel, shutoff)
• Visuals: photos of connections, corrosion, or water marks
• Shutoffs: whether the stop valve works (don’t force it if it’s stuck)
• Part details: brand/model number for installations

We’ll then align the visit with the right category—repair, installation, or preventive check—using the service matrix.

Call a professional when the downside risk is high, even if the symptom looks small. Common “stop now” triggers:

• Water you can’t control with a local shutoff (or shutoff won’t close)
• Water near electrical components, outlets, or a panel
• Sewage odor with backups, or repeated clogs across multiple fixtures
• Evidence of mold, soft flooring, or ceiling stains (possible hidden leak)
• Gas smell near a gas water heater (leave the area and contact the appropriate emergency service/provider)

If you’re uncertain, err on the safe side—shut off water where possible and contact us at (555) 123-4567.